Pulque, a little valued elixir

• May 5, 2024

In pre-Hispanic times, pulque was considered the elixir of the gods. In the stage of the Colony it was the most important drink, consumed in all social strata. Now, only the memory remains, because national consumers prefer beer, tequila or wine.

Pulque is the result of the fermentation of the mead extracted from some maguey species; The most important is the Agave Atrovirens, known as the maguey meek.

To elaborate it, it is required that the plant reaches from 8 to 12 years in the cultivation fields, then the "layering" or cutting of the leaves to remove a part of the heart; After a time of rest, the mead is extracted. Each maguey can generate mead for about six months.

During the process act different microorganisms able to take advantage of the sugars of mead, especially sucrose, fructose and glucose.

So far, scientists have reported more than thirty bacteria in the drink. Among the main ones is the Zymomonas mobilis, one of those responsible for the alcohol content; Leuconostoc mesenteroides, which participates generating the viscosity of the product, and Lactobacillus acidophilus, which favors the level of acidity that gives the possibility of temporarily conserving it, without the need for pasteurization or sterilization. In addition, it contains yeasts such as Saccharomyces cerevisiae, also present in bread, beer and other alcoholic beverages.

"The fermentation process is spontaneous, that is, the microorganisms come from the environment and from the previous production processes of the beverage. Therefore, the possibility that the pulque obtained has the optimum level of acidity, thickness and alcohol, is medium. When the product is diluted or very acidic, the pulquers "cure" it adding flavors to correct the defects of the fermentation ", explains Agustín López Munguía, researcher at the Biotechnology Institute of the UNAM

Its production is artisanal, therefore, there is a risk of contamination from the environment, as occurs in foods not handled in a hygienic manner.

Some Mexican scientists have contributed to describe the microbial populations of pulque, however, Dr. López Munguía regrets that despite its historical and cultural value, the product has been little studied by the national scientific community.

"This neglect is one of the causes of the fall in consumption and production; While research centers specializing in barley and brewing were created in England and Germany, a scientific project was never developed in Mexico that would have pulque as a priority and that would allow the production of an attractive and competitive product. Although both beverages had similar levels of consumption in Mexico at the beginning of the 20th century. "

Rescuing him is not an easy task, but neither is it impossible. In fact, the efforts of small business groups are beginning to emerge. Perhaps one day not very far away, it will be possible to find it in the market along with the beers with the quality that consumers demand today in any part of the world.

Science contributes to improving our quality of life, participates in the Citizen Agenda of Science Technology and Innovation, a national consultation in which you can choose the challenges you consider must confront science and technology to achieve a better quality of life in the year 2030 You can vote for the challenge that seems most important to you: www.agendaciudadana.mx

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